Many of the projects here use glues and/or glazes as part of their process. Instead of writing this all out for ever project, I’ve compiled it all here. Most of these products can harm your health in some way or other, so be sure to read the information on their packages before using them. You only get one set of your important body parts (eyes, lungs, etc), so it’s important to take care of them. Also, you can find the MSDS (materials safety data sheet) for almost anything online these days, just google “*name of product* MSDS”. In addition, be sure to test anything you’re using on some scrap until you know how it works.
Most of the projects here require some sort of clear glue. You want a glue that sticks things well but doesn’t damage your parts. A lot of glues will peel the silver backing off of rhinestones. Others dry kind of yellowish. My favorite glue to use is Liquitex’s Clear Gloss Medium. It doesn’t stick things that well, but it’s perfect if what you’re doing will have a clear glaze of some sort. Apart from that, many craft glues dry clear and work well in these applications. Try out the products available in your local craft stores. You’ll have favorites soon enough. Always test a glue before you put it onto something important.
I only use this once in a while, but when I do I prefer a gel type. Ventilation is your best friend when you’re using super glue.
Clear Nail Polish:
This can be used as an adhesive when sticking things onto real or fake nails. It’s generally a good idea to give your glued down pieces a top coat with the clear nail polish as well.
This glue is awesome fabrics, plastics and lots of other stuff. GOOP is similar, and Aleen’s fabric glue (in a metal tube) can be used in my situations. Like I’ve said before, test first.
You have a number of choices for glazing finished jewelry. Some projects require something specific, others don’t.
Clear nail polish:
It’s easy to find and inexpensive. It works best on finger nails (obviously) but can also be a good choice for glazing jewelry pieces. To get a smooth finish you want to try to cover the entire surface before any of it dries. It’s best for smaller pieces because of this. It’s not designed to be archival (with it’s normal use only being a week or two) so it can yellow and crack over time.
I have never used this (*gasp*). I’ve never been able to find it in stores around me, but I know a lot of crafters swear by it.
This classic product is excellent for decoupage and similar projects, and if applied carefully can be used on jewelry.
You can get great effects with it, but it definitely comes with health and safety risks. A “tabletop” style resin is my go-to for a lot of glazing. READ THE DIRECTIONS ON YOUR PACKAGE. Resins vary, and I can’t even begin to give you the safety info you need for every kind available. Practice with it before you use it. Buy only what you can use in a month or two, it will yellow if you leave it hanging around. Use something to cover your surface, gloves, eye protection and breathing protection if you like being alive and having one even layer of skin over your body. If you do your research and keep yourself safe you can get amazing results with it. Don’t put this over rhinestones, you’ll soften the facets and make them sparkle less.
Clear Spray Paint:
This can give you perfect finishes on many things, but many faux pearls and similar bits and bobs have finishes that dissolve in clear spray paint. Test first, and follow the directions on the can about ventilation and safety.