Fold In Half Wallet Cut + Sew
by Carly DeGraeve | no responses | January 5, 2013
I walked you through how to pattern this fold-in-half leather wallet. In this post I will show you how to assemble this leather wallet so you can apply the technique to any leather wallet you might design.
Leather (or plastic vinyl) 10″ x 22″ or 17″ x 13″ | 25cm x 56cm or 43cm x 33cm
Woven Fabric (optional: fusible interfacing) 5″ x 8.5″ | 13cm x 22cm
Zipper 4″ or 5″ long | 10cm or 13cm long
Heavy Duty Thread (ideally thread designed for using with leather/fur)
Paper Pattern (Make your own pattern or buy this pattern for $1USD)
Straight Edge Blade (I used a rotary cutter and a box cutter for this project)
Marker or Pen
Layout the pattern pieces in a way that efficiently uses the leather. Also pay attention to any inconsistencies or blemishes in the leather that you don’t want displayed on your wallet.
Cut out each piece using a ruler and straight edge blade for best results. For the coin pocket which has oval shaped cutouts trace the cutouts to the leather with a pen or marker. Use a straight edge blade for the straight edges and carefully cut the rounded corners with sharp heavy duty scissors.
Also cut out the fabric panel for the outside of the wallet (not pictured) and fuse interfacing if desired.
Transfer your stitching marks to each piece. Place the leather on a cork panel (or other sturdy but soft surface you can push into) with the pattern piece carefully lined up on top. Using an awl, punch through the pattern paper and leather to create a hole for stitching later.
First, we will prepare all the pieces that sew together and then we will assemble all the pieces into the final wallet.
With the back side of the Leather Frame facing up center the fabric facing down on the piece. Using the inside row of stitch marks sew the fabric to the Leather Frame piece with a running stitch with filling stitch.
Filling running stitch:
Attach the zipper in the same way. The zipper should be centered in the oval opening and sewn in place with filling running stitch. If the zipper is longer than the oval opening (as mine was) place the zipper so the metal stopper is just inside the opening to reduce strain on the leather during use.
Attach the Top Pocket to the Coin Pocket next. Place the wrong side of the Top Pocket to the right side of the Coin Pocket. Using the pre-punched stitching marks as your guide align the pieces and sew them together with a filling running stitch.
Attach the Coin Pocket to the Bonus Pocket. Using the pre-punched stitching marks on the Coin Pocket and the Bonus Pocket for alignment attach the pieces together. The finished sides of each piece should be touching when they are attached. Use filling running stitch.
Fold the Coin Pocket so the wrong sides are touching.
The ends of the zipper stick out past the edges of the pocket. Trim these down. If you own pinking sheers use these to trim the tails. Otherwise it would be wise to finish the ends with some fray check or an overhand finish to deter unraveling.
Sew the Coin Pocket to itself along the 3 cut edges. Do not include the bonus pocket layer in this step.
The Card Pocket sits on top of the Cash Pocket and there is a line of stitching that separates the one card pocket piece into 2 pockets. Align these pockets with the Card Pocket wrong side touching the right (top) side of the Cash Pocket and sew this center seam through both layers.
Now we are ready for the final construction. We will stack all the pieces together and sew everything in place.
The wrong side of the Wallet Frame piece should be put against the wrong side of the Wallet Backing. The wrong side of the Bonus Pocket and the Cash Pocket will be placed against the right side of the wallet backing. The pieces are stacked in the correct orientation in the photo below – they just need to be lined up and sewn in place.
Sew the layers together matching your stitch marks for all pieces.
It might be helpful to use straight pins through the holes to help when lining everything up. Don’t sew the Coin Pocket down as it is already attached to the Bonus Pocket and sewn closed.
Sew all the way around the outside edge of the wallet with a filling running stitch. This is the end result:
Here is the first part of how to pattern this wallet yourself.
This pattern is also for download for $1USD: