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Fold In Half Wallet – Patterning Part 4

We warmed up on the easy pieces.  The zipper pouch is a bit trickier but not impossible by any means.

Make a pattern for a leather wallet

If you missed it Click here to view Part 3.

 

The coin zipper pocket  will not be attached to the wallet around the outside edge like the other pieces. It will be sewn to the bonus pocket in a way to allow for the potential expansion caused by putting coins in the pocket.

 

For this step you need to work with the bonus pocket pattern piece and the coin pocket pattern piece.

 

The coin pocket piece will be folded in half to create the pocket.  Re-draw the coin pocket piece to be twice the height of the finished pocket.  The dashed line on the pocket below is where the pocket will be folded.

Even though the edge of the coin pocket won’t be sewn down, we want the edge of the pocket lined up with the edge of the wallet so everything sits nicely and looks good.  For the whole patterning process, we have been looking at the right-side of the leather.  When the coin pocket is sewn to the bonus pocket, the right sides of the leather will be touching.  Let’s turn the coin pocket over and work on the wrong-side for this layout.

Stack the coin pocket and bonus pocket and align them how they will be when the wallet is complete.

To allow the coin pocket a bit of room to expand, we are going to sew it to the bonus pocket a little inside of the edge stitching.  The coin pocket does not need to be a full piece of leather where it connects to the bonus pocket.  I created a cut-out on the coin pocket piece that is large enough that I can cut another pattern piece (my CTA Pass Pocket) from the scrap leather.  Note: If you are making the insides with woven fabric, this cutout is unnecessary.

Create a line of stitching marks just outside that cut-out for attaching the coin pocket to the bonus pocket.

Transfer the stitching marks to the bonus pocket.

Set the Bonus Pocket pattern piece aside.  Flip your Coin Pocket pattern piece over so you are working on the right-side of the leather again.

This pocket needs an opening/closure so you can actually use it.  Let’s create a cut-out so we can sew a zipper in the fold.  Most light-weight nylon (plastic) zippers you find at craft stores require about 3/8″ (1cm) of open space for the zipper to work without disruption.  Measure your zipper to be sure a 3/8″ (1cm) wide opening is enough space before cutting your leather.

 

Center the opening for the zipper over the fold of the coin pocket.

Even though we don’t need to align stitches when sewing through the leather into the zipper tape, it is helpful to still create a stitching pattern in the leather.  It will ensure that the stitches are evenly spaced.  The zipper is close to the stitches that attach the pocket to the rest of the wallet so place the stitches for the zipper offset from the previous stitch marks.

The coin pocket will sew to itself with wrong sides together.  Create stitching marks around the outside edge of half the pocket.

Fold the pocket closed how it will be sewn and transfer the stitching marks to the other half of the wallet.

The last pocket we need to place is the little top pocket on the coin pocket (I’ll be using it for my CTA pass).  Position the pocket where you want it to be.  Layout stitching marks around 3 sides of the pocket.

Transfer the marks onto the coin pocket pattern piece.

Make a pattern for a leather wallet

Now your pattern is ready to go.  Luckily, sewing it all together is the easy part.